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Garment Heritage

Understanding the 32 Stitches of Lucknowi Chikankari

Sunita Verma· 18 January 2026· 6 min read
Understanding the 32 Stitches of Lucknowi Chikankari

From shadow-work Tepchi to microscopic Phanda knots, discover how female craft collectives in Lucknow’s Chowk neighborhood preserve shadow embroidery.

Lucknowi Chikankari is the delicate art of shadow embroidery on fine white cotton mulmul, organza, and chanderi silk fabrics, born in the Nawabi courts of Avadh.

A single chikankari garment can incorporate up to 32 distinct stitch patterns, executed entirely by hand using unbleached cotton thread. Tepchi creates fine running outlines, Bakhiya forms shadow work on the reverse side, and Phanda creates raised pearl-like seed knots.

Our chikankari pieces are hand-embroidered by female artisan collectives in Lucknow’s Chowk and Aminabad quarters. Each piece requires 40 to 120 hours of concentrated handwork, reflecting generations of unbroken female craft heritage.

Wash your Chikankari garments gently by hand in cold water with mild liquid detergent. Dry in shade to retain the pristine clarity of the embroidery and breathable cotton weave.

Written by Sunita Verma for The Vidhi Vidhan Journal
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